A weekend in Lisbon: the city of seven hills, slow trams, and salt air
Two and a half days in Lisbon will not make you fluent in Portuguese, will not get you across the entire city,…
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View all posts →How to pack for two weeks in one carry-on (and never check a bag again)
After fourteen countries and one disastrous lost-luggage incident in Madrid, I have settled on a system. It fits two weeks of clothing…
The art of slow cooking: a winter chickpea stew from southern Spain
There is a dish in Andalusia called potaje de garbanzos. It is older than most countries. It costs almost nothing to make.…
On letter writing: why I still mail things in 2026
I keep a stack of stamps in a drawer. Not for bills or birthday cards. For letters. Real letters, in envelopes, sent…
Five days in Kyoto: temples, tea houses, and the rhythm of a quieter Japan
Kyoto rewards patience. Tokyo is loud and Osaka is louder, but Kyoto whispers, and the whisper is more interesting than the shout.
A camera, a notebook, a pen: the only three things I take on every trip
I have tested almost every travel gadget marketed at people like me. After all of it, the three things I genuinely use…