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Notes from a small life of travel

This is a quiet site about places that mattered and slow ways of getting there. Long-form essays from cities I have loved, practical guides for travelers who want to pack lighter and move slower, and the occasional recipe carried home in a notebook.

There is no schedule. New posts arrive when they arrive — usually two or three a month, sometimes nothing for six weeks, sometimes a flurry of pieces from a single long trip. If you want to be notified when there is something new, the easiest way is to bookmark this page and check back.

What you will find

  • Travel — long pieces from individual cities and regions, with the kind of detail that is only useful if you might go
  • Travel tips — practical posts on packing, gear, hauling yourself across countries on a budget, and other matters of logistics
  • Food — recipes carried home and pieces about food culture in the places I have eaten well
  • Essays — slower-moving pieces about the underlying habit of travel: attention, journaling, letter writing, solo travel, the long way around

Start anywhere. The most recent posts are below.


Or browse by what you are in the mood for

  • A long essay → start with “On letter writing” or “Why I started keeping a travel journal”
  • A city to visit next → try “A weekend in Lisbon” or “Five days in Kyoto”
  • Something practical → “How to pack for two weeks in one carry-on” or “A camera, a notebook, a pen”
  • Something about food → “The art of slow cooking” or “Naples and the religion of pizza margherita”

How this site is made

This site runs on WordPress with a theme called Wandermark, made by Key Brains. The fonts are Fraunces (the serif) and Inter Tight (the body). The color palette is bone, ink, and a single accent of electric yellow. The whole thing is designed to disappear behind the writing, which is the only thing about a website that really matters.